Clare Wentzel,

Kalamazoo, MI - IPMS #1096 

IPMS/Kalamazoo Scale Modelers

1/72 Academy P-38J Lightning

     This is kit #2209, I Used Cutting Edge decals and Eduard colored Photo-etch set. Markings of Lt. Allen Hill, 80th FS, 8th FG - 9 kills.  Modified the side windows to simulate them being partially rolled down to show more of the interior. Added antenna wires and mounted the model to a base that represents the PSP steel plank runways that were used in the area. 

Jon Emery,

Raleigh, NC, - IPMS #45668

IPMS/Eagle Squadron

1/35 RPM Polish TKS

      The Kit was built from the box, with the additions of tow cable and leather handles on the hatches. Polish tankers are Tamiya Russian tankers with Hornet French tanker heads painted in Polish Summer 1939 colors.

Bob Kremer,

, - IPMS #39698

IPMS/Steve Wittman Scale Modelers

1/25 MPC 1973 Pontiac Firebird Formula

     I started this project as part of an online challenge on the former Hobby Heaven (now Spotlight Hobbies) Message Board, called the "Double Dawg Dare Ya To Build It", a contest of sorts to get modelers to build some of those old collector kits instead of hoarding them for their entire lives. After all, that's what all these models were made for, right?! The only rules were it had to be unbuilt to start with and had to be at least 30 years old. 

 

I chose a kit that I had bought from a friend a few years before. I've always loved Firebirds, especially the early second-generation cars and the Formula always looks tough with those twin nostril hood scoops! As I did some research and was deciding how to build the kit, I discovered it had a number of inaccuracies, particularly in the interior, engine compartment, taillights and the stock wheels. After a while, I chose to build the kit stock but with several modifications to make it more accurate and more detailed.

 

I had to change the steering wheel mounting on the dash as the kit located it far too low to be accurate. Also, I selected a three-spoke steering wheel from a '72 GTO as more unusual for the Formula as many of them were built standard with the Formula wheel and I thought It added to the distinctiveness of my project. I added tilt and turn signal levers to the steering column, floor pedals from an AMT '70 1/2 Camaro, a scratch built four-speed console/shifter, custom mixed flocking for carpet, door lock buttons in the tops of the door panels, and the whole thing was painted in a combination of tans to complement the exterior color.

 

Next came the chassis which was essentially built box stock though I did scratch build most of the exhaust system out of styrene rod, aluminum rod and tubing. I painted it with red oxide primer and added some darker colors for contrast. It isn't exactly factory correct but I think it looks good against the exterior color. I added more accurate Rally II wheels on slightly larger tires for the car as the kit items were quite inadequate for my needs.

 

Next came the engine compartment and this is where a large amount of the work was put into. I scratch built a Ram Air air cleaner and a corresponding hood shroud to make the car look as if it has a functional cold air intake system. I added a better alternator and scratch built power steering pump both with brackets. I added an extra belt and pulley setup to facilitate this, plus I added a master cylinder and booster to the firewall. I also wired the engine and ran hoses, added a battery, etc.<p>Finally came the work on the body. To make a long story short, this model now wears its THIRD paint job after two botched attempts! It is a Pontiac color similar to Chevy's Rally Green and is acrylic lacquer from a spray can. I also added Bare Metal Foil trim, scratch built headlights, resin taillight lenses, and a rear bumper painted with Alclad II chrome with my
airbrush.

 

After all that work, I'm pretty happy with the results. I also have the Doyusha 1/12 scale Trans Am kit that I would like to apply my skills to but that'll have to wait for another big dose of ambition! Enjoy!

Raymond Rosario,

Taunton, MA, - IPMS #32374

IPMS/Bay Colony Historical Modelers

120mm S & T Productions U.S. Marine

     This is a  U.S. Marine from the Korean War.  The only change was replacing the M-1's sling; this one was made from masking tape, brass, and aluminum wire. 

Dick Montgomery,

IPMS Director of Local Chapters

, - IPMS #14003

IPMS/Alamo Squadron

1/48 Czech Models XP-77

    This  is a rather small model measuring only 6.75 by 5.5 inches. But then the prototype was a very small, point defense fighter made from non-strategic materials (wood). The model comes with resin wheels and cockpit which are wrapped in a simple but well molded fuselage. The only down-side to this kit is that the canopy is vacuformed.

Fred Amos,

St. Louis, MO - IPMS #6672 

IPMS/Gateway

1/32 Hasegawa Fw 190-D9 Yellow Tail

     The kit went together very well and the decals were top notch. The only extra item installed are a set of Eduard Luftwaffe seat belts. Look for a full review on the IPMS/USA web site soon.

Bob Dedmon,

Williamsburg, VA - IPMS #17560

IPMS/Tidewater

1/28 Revell Foker Dr1

   This is was built as my entry in what was to be a club "Build the same model" contest we try to hold annually. Due to preparations for Nationals participation was limited. I made a bulkhead behind the seat and the ammunition box in front of the instrument cluster. This kit has been well reviewed and this is my first shot at this kit. I built it as the first Dr1 the Baron flew, as it had an interesting and easy paint scheme. I used Extra Color Luftwaffe RLM 62, 65 and 26 for the green light blue and red and Alclad aluminum for the bare metal in the cowel and upper fuselage. The propeller was first painted with Model Master wood color then I streaked on burne siena water color to acheive a quasi wood grain. If I were to go after this kit again I'd fix the interior and install the oil tank and throttle quadrant on the correct sides of the fuselage.

Charles Walker,

Sebastian, FL - IPMS #4493

IPMS/Vero Beach "The Nightfighters"
IPMS/Syracuse "The Boys From Syracuse"

1/72 Octopus Vought OS2U Kingfisher

      This kit with a few parts (struts) from the old Airfix kit. I used the White Ensign P/E. The rear compartment is scratch built with detailed 30. cal gun, radio equipment and decking. The transparencies are  Falcon Clear Vax. The A/C is marked as # 1692, USS Pennsylvania, 1940. Decals are Aero Master.  Paint is Tamiya Acrylic. The catapult has been in my box, unbuilt, since the 1970s.  It is injection molded and came from a classified ad in the old Scale Modeler Magazine.

Michael Novosad,

, - IPMS #36721

IPMS/

1/48 Tamiya A-1J Skyraider

I purchased this kit from Dean’s Model Stop in the spring of 2007 during our annual pilgrimage to Midland for a contest. Many years ago I had built the Monogram Skyraider, and was quite happy with the kit. I was always intrigued by the Tamiya kit, but somewhat put off my the higher cost. The Dean’s price was reasonable so I made the purchase.

     I planned to apply a SEA camouflage scheme to this model. Prior to any assembly I created masking profiles from the wings, stabilizers and fuselage halves. I used the kit parts to draw the limits of the various colors on these profile, and labeled each color. I planned to use the kit decals for this build rather than aftermarket decals, although I did have an old Super Scale Skyraider stencil sheet that would also be used.

     The clear parts were dipped in Future floor wax and allowed to dry for several days. The rear view mirror came from the Eduard mirror set (48 409).

The instrument panel is moderately detailed: the switches and gauges are presented in raised detail, but gauge dial face detail is missing. An instrument panel decal is provided. I had three choices: use the entire decal, punch out and apply each dial separately, or use an Eduard photo etch placard for the instrument panel. I decided to use the kit decal and punch out the dials for individual installation. This method took about two hours and a steady hand to accomplish. A drop of clear epoxy was applied to each dial face for the lens.

     The ejection seat is three parts, and seat belts are provided as decals. Here again Eduard photo etch seat belts were used for a more realistic appearance.

The engine was built per kit instructions, painted flat black and dry-brushed with Rub-n-Buff silver. Ignition wires were added using copper wire.

     The chin air scope is a separate part and has an impression of a mesh cast at the back of the throat. I carefully opened the intake, removing the cast screen and super glued a small piece of brass screen on the inside of the opening. Now, that looked more realistic to me!

     I planned to have the fuselage dive brakes open, although none of the reference photos appeared to indicate this configuration was “normal“ I was going to exercise artistic license. The wings consisted of a bottom full span assembly and two wing tops. The wing flaps may be installed up or down. I chose the down position. I also cut short lengths of brass tube for the wing 20mm cannon. The pitot tube located on the vertical stabilizer was also replaced with telescoping brass tubing.

     I used Gunze Sangyo paints for this model. Once the paint had thoroughly dried for two days a thinned wash of burnt umber was applied to all panel lines. I used silver and steel Prismatic artist’s pencils to create chipping and scratches. Chalk pastels were applied with a medium-size stiff brush to create soot and dirt stains at various access panels. Exhaust staining was created with thinned Tamiya flat black.

     The Future floor wax was airbrushed over the entire model and allowed to dry for 24 hours. Decals were then applied, each be rubbed down to a q-tip to remove all wrinkles and bubbles. Everything was sealed with Floquil flat finish.

     The wing tip navigation lights were removed, and small holes were drilled holes with a pin vice. Short lengths of clear sprue were inserted into the holes. The ends of the sprues were painted with Tamiya clear red and green, and later a small amount of epoxy was apply over the sprue to recreate the bubble lens. The same treatment was given to the navigation light on top of the vertical stabilizer.

     Eduard Remove Before Flight Flags (49 009) were added to all pylons. Fine copper wire was used to attach the flag to the individual pylon. This detail helps “busy up” the model.