TRUMPETER 1/35 Sweden Strv 103 B MBT
Kit #00309
MSRP: $25 US

Reviewed By John Lester, #36807

Sweden's Stridsvagen (literally "combat wagon") Strv-103 "S-tank" was a unique design that served from the early 1960's until 2001. Bofors designed the tank with maximum survivability in mind, dispensing with a turret and providing a severely sloped, wedge-shaped profile. It was armed with one fixed 105mm L7 auto-loading main gun that was aimed by turning the vehicle and elevating the entire hull via a hydraulic system. Two engines powered the tank: a Detroit Diesel 2-stroke V6 powered the hydraulics and "fine movement", while a Boeing/Caterpillar

gas turbine provided power for movement. A crew of three was normally carried in a compartment behind the automatic transmission. The driver could fire the main gun as well as the commander, and because the tank could go just as fast backwards as forwards, a rear-facing driver was also available.

The result was an accurate gun platform that was hard to spot and hit because of it's low silhouette. However, the hydraulic system was prone to breakdown, the gun could not be turned if the tank threw a track, and cross-country mobility was limited by the use of only four road wheels per side. Still, almost 300 S-tanks were built for the Swedish Army during the 60s. In the mid-1970s the tanks received a major rebuild to become B models, and another extensive upgrade in the 80s resulted in the C model. By the '90s, however, newer generations of Soviet anti-tank rounds were fully capable of penetrating all the way to the 50 round magazine at the rear of the tank, and the STrv-103C's were replaced by the Leopard A5.

Trumpeter has released two models of the Strv-103 in 1/35 scale: the -B and -C. Both feature fine, sharp detailing throughout which is very close to the latest from Academy and Tamiya. The Strv-103B that I built consists of 3 sprues of dark green plastic, a well-illustrated instruction booklet, a sprue of polycaps for attaching the road wheels, vinyl "rubber-band" style tracks, and a small sheet of waterslide decals containing stencils and unit markings for one tank. No interior is provided, though separate hatches are for those crazy enough to scratchbuild one. Optional parts include a 'dozer blade and a hose for the diesel exhaust.

I didn't find a lot of material available on this vehicle when researching prior to building. What I did find indicates that the shape and equipment molded are accurate for an Strv-103B. Some sources state that the kit is too small (dimensionally) for the stated scale; I could not confirm or refute that - and in any event, the end result looks more like an S-tank than a Sherman, so I'm satisfied.

Fit is good to excellent throughout, and the only place I used any putty was at the rear of the hull, where the upper and lower hull pieces meet. The only place I deviated from an out-of-the box build was the headlights. These are provided as two opaque pieces. I drilled out the "glass", painted the interior of the lamp the color called for in the instructions, and filled it with Kristall Kleer (a heavy white glue that dries clear). I deviated from the instructions' assembly sequence in that I built the hull, then the wheels. I painted those and the tools/external stowage separately, then put them together. The only issues I ran into during construction were:

Step 2: The diagram in the instructions has parts A14 & A13 reversed. As they are keyed to fit only one way, that's not a big deal.

Step 12: The two whip antennae are supposed to be made from stretched sprue. I did this, and ended up with them curving towards the top. Florist's wire would be a better choice, as these should be straight throughout their length. Also, no mounting spring base is provided. This is easily replicated with fine wire wound around a piece of tube.

I could only get two of the three shovels to fit under their retainer. Not a big deal, as pictures show anywhere from 1 to 3 carried.

If using parts C49 & C50 (some tanks had these, some didn't), don't put them on until AFTER you put the wheels and treads on. (D'OH!)

Also, if you want to have the front 'dozer blade in the lowered position, make sure you do not glue parts B33 (bulldozer blade support struts) to the upper hull.

The instructions call for the overall color to be RLM02, but that doesn't gibe with photos I found (not dark or green enough). I mixed a bit of Olive with Tamiya's "German Grey". I used lighter greys to drybrush highlights, then followed with several black oil washes and a small amount of Rustall. I kept weathering to a minimum, as these tanks were well-maintained. I did some light paint chipping using a #2 pencil and some pastels for the engine exhausts.

The vinyl tracks gave me fits - nothing wanted to stick to them. I finally got Tamiya medium grey to stay as a basecoat. This I overcoated with Model Master "Burnt Iron", drybrushed with Model Master "Steel" to show wear. I was able to get the tracks on with a minimum of paint flaking off (still enough to make the model non-competitive at most shows though, alas).

To finish, I painted the commander's HMG steel and the vision blocks silver, overcoated with Tamiya clear blue. I should have mixed in some "Smoke", as the result is too blue. Oh well.

All in all, this is a well-fitting, well-designed kit with a lot of potential for those who like to superdetail or build dioramas. I can highly recommend it to any modeler with a kit or two under their belt.

Review sample courtesy of my long-suffering credit card.

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