Cyber-Hobby

Panzer III Ausf.N sPzAbt.501 Afrika

Kit Number: 6431

Reviewed by  Bruce Drummond, IPMS# 37265

MSRP: $ 48.55 Imported by Dragon USA www.dragonmodelsusa.com Quick Look I never get tired of looking at the boxy look and design as well as the overall appearance of a Panzer III. This vehicle, along with its bigger brother the Pz IV, was the most widely produced vehicles by the German Industries throughout WW II. These vehicles served as work horses throughout the many campaigns from the invasion of the Low Countries to the final Battle in Berlin in the final days of the war. This Pz III chassis also served as a platform for many variants including the infamous Tank Killer, the Sturmgeschutz. Remarkable! Cyber-Hobby offers this kit and the changes that were added to the final variant with many extra parts that will enrich your parts box. The 'N' variant also happens to be the last of the actual Pz III production run. The box cover shows a vehicle in action and on the move. It will stand as a decent quick coloring reference for those that do not have a library to support them. Is it a "Shake and Bake" kit? In many ways, yes. How about novices? It is also a good place for those that have not yet tried Photo etch or have limited knowledge of, to cut their teeth so to speak in an industry that is slowly offering more than just a toy model. If problems from the PE arise you would be able to revert back to using the plastic pieces available There are about 600 parts not counting the individual track pieces (some 200). Almost 550 plastic with about 40 PE parts and 15 clear parts, mostly for the insides of the visors. I counted a total of some 94 pieces not being used. That's a lot of kit. The Decal sheet allows you to build 4 different vehicles representing the 501st Abteilung during the 1942-43 periods. The instruction sheet is a little busy but careful study and test fitting of parts will overcome any confusion. It will take you through 22 steps, concluding with the markings and paint schemes for 4 Vehicles of sPz.Abt. 501 based in Tunisia between the 1942/43 periods. Lower Hull Most Armor kit manufacturers have you start with construction of the wheels first and this one is no different. Step # 1 opens with the building of the Idler wheels. Both Idlers have PE rings sandwiched between each half to create a more accurate rendition of the real deal. The tensioning unit and axle upon which the wheel sits is also built at this time and is a charm by itself and quite delicate. Following the idlers is the building of the wheels and Drive sprockets. They go together well and after I built mine and I set them aside for painting (I like to paint them separately then add them to the hull after it has been completed and painted. Step # 2 starts with the addition of all the parts for the lower Hull. First up is the small lower fender supports. Nice to see as most Manufacturers of armor models are just starting to detail the underside of the fenders. Step # 3 continues with the lower hull additions. Torsion Bars! They make a great effect to the overall vehicle, if one chooses to add an aftermarket Interior. Could it be Cyber-Hobby is thinking of doing this in any subsequent Panzer III models? I hope so. Next come the Axles which can be articulated quite easily but cutting the location pins for any adjustments necessary. The Shock absorbers are nicely detailed compared to the older kits we've all built before and they do much to bring up the beauty of this beast and included in this is of course, a wonderfully detailed Final Drive housing. Step # 4 is the building of the rear armor plate. The whole affair goes together like putting on a glove and the biggest choice here is the optional addition of a towing pimple. Step # 5 also indicates time to put on the wheels. As mentioned earlier, I waited but the choice is yours. The instructions do not indicate in which steps, 4 or 5, the rear plate is added so I added it when I first started to build the hull in step #2 (I like to work with an inflexible hull and one that is relatively dry when it comes time to add all the parts). Step # 6. It's now time to construct the rear exhaust box/frame. Although I did wrestle a little with positioning the PE parts with the plastic parts while trying to align it all for proper fit it was still a bear of a time. Remember to test fit everything here before gluing! This is imperative. Also added at this time were the Fenders, ( NOTE PE parts # MA 9 should be attached to both fenders here as it will be hard to attach them after the fenders are set in place) and also the completed front 'Glacis plate' from Step # 12, sans head lights (for handling purposes). I then picked up my air brush and sprayed the Hull and Wheels their base color. Turning to Model Master Paints I sprayed all surfaces with 'Afrika Braun'. When dry, the tires of the still separate wheels were painted Polly Scale 'Grimy Black' and all were set aside to dry. While I waiting for all this to set up and dry I jumped ahead to step # 14 and tackled the individual track links. These track links are some of the best injection molded 40 cm tracks I've seen to date, but, each link must have its "push mark" (2 per link) removed before painting and this would be the time to do it. After each link was cleaned up they were sprayed with Model Master 'Dark Earth'as I find this to be the closest of all colors I found to be used on tracks on any vehicle, given certain 'earth colorings' from the various arenas. OOPS! I was under the impression that you could 'snap' together each link and you surely can, but, they will not stay together for any long runs. I decided to build the two separate runs, and so, I used Modelmaster liquid glue in the black triangular bottle with long applicator (thick glue) as it has a longer setting time for you to work with. During the time it takes for each run to set up, about ½ hour or so, I added the pre painted wheels to the lower hull. This was then followed by adding each complete run and making any final adjustments, one side at a time. The whole lower hull, with tracks added, was then set aside to dry over night. Upper Hull While the lower hull was drying I proceeded to built many of the sub-assemblies as noted in steps # 7 through # 12. These were then painted and given time to dry. Step # 13 shows it is time to add the nicely rendered Hull Vision Blocks. These are a great offering and they allow you to demonstrate your vehicle 'catching a breeze' so to speak. A refreshing break form an all closed up vehicle. Back to Step # 14, again, the upper superstructure components. Sub - assemblies M,N and P and the top, part B4 were fitted together on my workbench followed by the attachment of the completed Engine Deck, less the Tow Cable (to be added after painting). This completed unit was set then painted the aforementioned color of 'Afrika Braun' and set aside to dry. Dinner, a night's sleep and then finally the addition of the superstructure to the lower hull. What a great fit! I could not have asked for more. A little coaxing and a tight fit all around with NO GAPS. How great is that! Step # 15 is a bit tricky and I did experience a little fit problem with the 'add on armor'. Adjustments need to be made so test fitting constantly will be necessary. My only problem with this add on armor was that I could not seat the front plate to the overhead extended hull 'stringers'. This was followed by the 2 side plates. No matter what I did I could not get them to completely encompass the extension gap on each side. It is only off by 1 or 2 mm on my sample. It is now time to spray the base color on the superstructure and as before it was painted 'Afrika Braun'. I also painted all the tools and additional parts to be added to the outer hull and fenders with their base coat. The Gun Steps # 16, 17 and 18. The Main Gun and Breach. Time for another either/or decision. One involves the Machine Gun and the other the old/new style collar for the main gun and check out the Rifled Barrel that mounts to this! This having been decided, these 3 steps go together very well and create a quite impressive gun assembly. I especially liked the detail on the Breach Guard rails as well as the mounting points for the spent shell catcher. This catcher is a charm in itself and looks very nice when attached and seen from the outside. Sad to note here, that there is no machine gun receiver or main frame to sit beside this assembly and it is easily noted if you decide to leave represent the vehicle with the turret hatches displayed open. (My opinion here and it is only MY opinion would be to rob the hull MG leave off the head rest and establish a new home for it next to the Breach itself). Turret Steps # 19and # 20 begins the building of the Turret. The rear Storage Bin is nicely rendered and looks great when attached. Another option you have is to leave it unattached and sitting on the engine deck as I have seen in many pictures. Your choice. The Cupola or Pulpit if you will, you know, that place from which the decisions of life and death are made and executed, comes next. Before I made this sub-assembly, I used some tacky tape and fitted small pieces over the Glass blocks before each Vision Block was added, then the cupola was constructed. All additional pieces in Step # 21 were then added as per instructions with the exception of the Smoke/Mortar Grenades, parts #G3. The Interiors of the Cupola, Turret, Hatches and the gun Breach were then sprayed with Modelmaster 'Interior Buff'. When the Interiors were dry, the outer surfaces were then sprayed the base color and when they were dry they were added to the vehicle completing the build. I then added all the tools and other items that had been left off while building. When all was dry the any items that were left off for convenience were added followed by any touch ups necessary. The smoke grenades and Jerry cans were painted separately and added later after the finished turret was painted and dried. Decals and Weathering I applied Future Floor Wax to all areas where the decals were to be applied and waited until the solution dried. I then added what decals were needed for my version or Abteilung and set them with a Micro Sol solution to snug them up. The next day, I applied an over all wash of a thinned Sepia (Oils) to "play down" the base color and give it character. The following day when everything was dry and all extra equipment was added I sprayed the entire vehicle with a Dullcoat. This was followed by a 'picking out' of certain items on the outer hull for enhancement. Next came some wearing effect added with graphite to show crew wear and tear. One more time I finished the model with an overall spray of dullcoat. I want to thank the Dragon Models USA for supplying me this kit via IPMS/USA. It will make a fine addition to the few other Panzer III's in my collection and I highly recommend this kit.

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