Dragon Models Ltd

1/35 T-34/76 No. 112 Factory "Krasnoe Sormovo" Late Production

Kit Number: 6479-01 "Smart" Kit

Reviewed by  Grant DeRue, IPMS# 42477

MSRP: $45.00 Distributed by Dragon Model USA: www.dragonmodelsusa.com Let me start this review by saying that it is good to build a high quality kit that fits together, looks very real, and rewards you for trying new techniques and methods. This is one of those kits. I used the following references for this build: · T-34 In Action, Squadron/Signal Publications, Steven Zaloga and James Grandsen · Dragon T-34/76 Mod. 1941, Kit #6205-03 Both of these references were good to have next to the kit directions throughout the build. Unfortunately, I found this out half way into construction. According to the box art, there are more than 510 parts in the box. I believe it. There are tons in the box still after I completed the build. With the 144 track links and half of the photo-etched fret used, I'm assuming that I used around 400 parts to complete this kit. Most of the kit parts are made from styrene. A turned aluminum barrel is included along with an extensive photo-etched fret and two clear lenses for the headlight (only one is needed for this kit). The kit includes parts for a full turret interior, but the lower hull interior will be left to scratch builders and aftermarket suppliers. The 6-page directions are printed with blue and black text/graphics on white sheets. The parts placement is clear in most cases, but it is helpful to mark off each part number with a high-lighter when it is placed on the kit. More emphasis is placed on part numbers in this set of directions than visual part locations. The decals were nicely printed by Cartograf and go on easily with the use of Micro-Sol and Micro-Set. There are paint (only green tanks) and decal directions for 5 tanks in the directions, and there are a few additional decals on the sheet. I'll be using the extras on other builds. Cons: Now that I've described the kit and what is in the box, I'll detail what didn't work out for me when building the kit. At some locations on the directions sheets, the wrong parts are called out. Specifically, parts G18-G21 (the engine intake vents) should be H3-H6. G18-G21 is the earlier type of engine intake used on the Mod. 1941 kit. I used these parts prior to consulting my references. The turret and rear deck hand hold part numbers are confusing. The hand holds for the rear of the turret in step 10 are different for the hand holds listed in step 11. The hand holds for the front of the turret in step 10 are the same parts as what are listed for the rear deck hand holds in step 11. I used the hand holds listed in step 10 only backwards (front to back and back to front), and I used what was left for the rear deck. I love kits that have a surplus of parts. Parts U1 on each side of the rear hull have prominent ejector pin marks. These were the only ones that I found on the kit. The turret lifting rings (parts C5) had two fully-molded parts and one half-molded part. I borrowed a part from the Mod. 1941 kit for this build. I used the Mod. 1941 kit to find part G13. Instead of using the photo-etched tail light assembly (not shown in plans), I used a styrene part, and it looks fine. The upper hull has styrene strips that need removal. They are there to help locate the 1941 type storage bins (not used on this kit). These strips are very prominent. A number 11 blade and some polishing sticks quickly did away with these strips. It will be easier to remove these strips prior to assembly. The photo-etched tie downs for the snow cleats (part MA17) didn't appear to be long enough to hold down three cleats. Finally, I installed the wood block to the right side of the upper hull (don't ask me what the part number is…I forgot to write it down). Please note that none of these problems listed are "deal breakers" for the kit. All of them can be fixed with a minimum of effort. Pros: The "Magic Tracks" are fantastic. With patience and planning, they will work out fine. This was my first attempt a building individual track links at this scale. Once I measured a length of track, I connected the parts and "wetted" them with Testors liquid cement. After 5 minutes I fitted the track run to the tank and allowed it to dry. Once dried, I removed the track for paint and weathering. This kit comes with 3 choices for gun barrel. I used the turned aluminum barrel. I left the two piece barrel (halves lengthwise) and the slide molded plastic barrel in the box. I'll use the spares on "lesser" quality T-34 kits. The rear deck screens in photo-etched brass are a huge improvement over the all styrene screens. Both are included in the kit for those who fear brass. I like the clear headlight bulb. I painted the housing silver, and glued the headlight in place with white glue. I love having the choice between the square fuel tanks and the barrel-type fuel tanks. Both look great on T-34s, but I prefer the square ones. The brass rear fenders look great on the kit. There is no substitute for "scale" thickness on things like fenders. Usually I'd consider fit problems to be a "con." On this kit, it was a positive thing. I only had 3 fit problems. First, the rear deck screen housing for the PE screens (part P19) didn't fit well. It may have been due to the brass parts possibly warping the plastic part. Secondly, the upper hull needed a shim where it attaches the lower hull at the rear. Finally, tape over the wheel attachments before painting. The tolerances are so close, that once painted, the fit of the wheels is too tight. As on all Dragon armor kits, the Cartograf decals went on well. Paint and Weathering: For the base coat, I used three different hues of Testors Acryl Russian Armor Green. The tires are Tamiya flat black. On all of my armor kits, I spray a diluted Tamiya buff overcoat to dirty up the decals and to begin the weathering process. Usually I spray on 1 part Tamiya Buff for 10 parts alcohol. This time, it didn't work out. After starting on the turret, the turret ended up being beige and the decals were barely seen. While not panicking, I used a soft flat brush and alcohol to remove the buff paint and to streak the finish. I liked the results, and I did the same on the remainder of the kit. After Testors enamel washes of panzer yellow and raw sienna, I dry brushed with a mixture of yellow and white Winsor and Newton oil paints. I performed a pin-wash of Testors flat black at a few locations to darken some recesses. The tracks were painted Tamiya dark sea blue followed by a diluted overcoat of hull red. The tracks were then dry brushed a mixture of Tamiya flat black and Vallejo silver. Conclusion: This is a great kit. Any level of armor modeler beyond complete novice will be able to handle this kit. With all the detail, extra parts, parts choices, and great photo-etched parts, you will not be disappointed by this kit. It took me 26.5 hours to build this one. It is a little longer than normal for me. The first 11 hours was just preparing the kit for paint, and most of this time was spent with the photo-etched parts. The final 15.5 hours was spent on the tracks, decaling, painting, and weathering. Dear Dragon,- Please keep these great kits coming. If I could influence you to make another T-34, please produce a Mod. 42 from the STZ factory with the Barrikady mantlet I'd like to thank Dragon and IPMS USA for the privilege of reviewing this kit.

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