Dragon Models Ltd.

Armor Pro Series 1/72 Sherman Mark III

Kit Number: 7288-01

Reviewed by  Howie Belkin, IPMS# 16

MSRP: $13.95 www.dragonmodelsusa.com The Sherman Mk. III was the British designation for the M4A2, which as provided here, depicts some well researched vehicles from the Royal Wiltshire Yeomanry as they appeared on parade in Syria in October 1943. At first I thought, "Why model a Sherman on security duty in Syria when there are so many combat veterans?" Fact is, the RWY fought gallantly during the Second Battle of El Alamein as part of the 9th Armoured Brigade, spearheading the breakout of the 2nd New Zealand Division during Operation Supercharge on 2 November 1942. After Syria, they fought in Italy. The kit follows DMLs series of superb 1/72 Shermans, with additional parts to build this variant. There are about 107 grey styrene parts, 2 one-piece flexible/glue-able DS tracks, and 1 small photo etched fret. I say "about" because some plastic parts can be replaced with photo etched ones, and other parts are optional depending upon which markings are used. Some tools are molded on and some are separate; the shovel especially benefits being a separate part. Some parts like the gun barrel is "slide molded" with the open recessed end. I airbrush parts on the sprue trees a light shade of "Light Mud," the predominant color, before assembly. Before adding the smallest parts I weather with burnt umber oil paint which darkens it. The dark camouflage color is "Blue Black" which I later handbrushed Humbrol black then touched up with a dark grey oil paint. I don't follow DML's directions in that I save the smallest parts for last, so I don't break them off while handling. Each four part suspension bogie unit simplifies assembly (the two hollow bogie wheels are molded as one part), but make sure you've lined up the wheels with the "axles." The poor fit on the forward flat side of the bogie (parts C5 and C6) needs putty. This doesn't have to be "neat" -you can keep it rough to simulate accumulated dirt. The kit's idler wheels have detail on the back, while most 1/35 kits don't! I used Zap A Gap CA+ touched with accelerator where I wanted extra strength to hold parts D24 and D25, the idler wheel mountings. I positioned them forward a bit to give me a little less track tension. I'd have preferred if DML molded them as part of the hull with a substantial axle to cement the idler wheel to. The new upper hull is well done, with the vents on the engine access panel so fine you could lightly sand through the bottom and open them if you wish. But then you'd have to blank it off so you don't see an empty engine compartment. The grouser vents on the back edges of the hull top have been removed and properly plated over. When you cement the upper and lower hull together, they close up the sponson with minimal need for putty. DML has correctly molded raised weld seams while most large scale kits still incorrectly mold them as engraved detail. After painting/weathering the one piece tracks I welded them closed with Tamiya liquid cement (use sparingly or risk melting the tracks and thinnest parts)! That was sufficient, but to be certain, I used CA+ with accelerator as well. Following DML's drawing to be sure the treads were facing the right direction, I worked them onto the tank with the drive wheels. That all came together nicely. Only then did I add the sandshields. Above them are thin plastic hull side rails with u-shaped brackets that should face up. I believe the crews placed poles in them to erect tarps. I build my review models "as it comes in the box" for my reviews, and if I want, I add to them for my own satisfaction later. This rail begs for tarps, helmets, backpacks and other stowage to be attached. The p.e. "flimsie" or POW (petrol, oil and water) rack is easily assembled but be careful positioning it. It begs for the addition of British flimsie cans. All hatches are separate and detailed front and back. You have a choice of plastic or p.e. periscope guards (the two on the turret are the only ones you use) and head and tail light brush guards. I opened the co-driver hull hatch and the commander's hatches. No crewmen are included but I intend to add them. The sponsons are closed but there's no interior in the hull (or turret), so you'll want to close the hatches or add crewmen. The front special shaped tow shackles were too darn fine, irreparably breaking on the sprue tree so I used standard ones. No color is called out for the exhausts (D10,11) but a Concord illustration shows them entirely weathered rust brown. The turret needs a little putty along the rear weld seam. There's no indication exactly how high to position the rear turret stowage box but pictures I saw showed the bottom level with the bottom of the turret, putting the top slightly higher. Miniscule p.e. handles are provided for modelers with amazing skills. I had to do a lot of trimming to make the periscope part A8 fit the turret, as well as A2 to fit the mantlet opening (note the indent matches up with the bulge in the turret). Since I was building "The Old Bell" I left off the armored guard (A47) for the coaxial machine gun and included a machine gun for the commander. Echelon's 1/35 decals and website have a chart by Peter Brown listing different RWY Shermans by name, indicating whether the vehicle had a machine gun and what kind, whether it wore the black square with white fern insignia of the 2nd New Zealand Division or not, and so on. "The Old Bell" should have a .30 cal. m.g., while the other two DML provides for, "Barford St. Martin" wore the 2nd NZ Div insignia and ""Corston" did not, but had a .50 cal. My biggest complaint with DML is that the simple and straightforward two page, 7 step instruction sheet is too simple, too small. I knew not to follow DML's assembly sequence (ie leave the small parts for last, after the hull top and bottom are together, painted, and you've added the tracks!) but new modelers would have broken off many of the small parts if they did it DML's way. I also have several articles and books for reference that I had to refer to often as the exact placement of some parts is ambiguous. I think DML and the modeler would be better served if instead of printing the instructions on glossy paper in full color on one side, they simply printed in black and white on cheaper paper with either larger or more pages. A little history could be provided (there's nothing here to tell you about the heroic action of the Royal Wiltshire Yeomanry!), the names of parts can be called out, part placement can be clear as day, etc. DML provides color call outs for three paint brands including Model Master, Aqueous Hobby Colour and Mr. Colour. For "color" I painted the wooden tool handles Humbrol deck tan and when dry I coated them with Tamiya acrylic clear orange which gives a cool "wood" look to them. I cut off the plastic positioning pins off the bottom of the shovel and a couple of other parts so I had some leeway positioning them. The thin, opaque, tightly registered Cartograf decals and full color painting instructions provide for three different RWY vehicles. From June 1942 British tanks had an air recognition roundel painted on, similar to the RAF's. I added mine from the scrap box. This IS an excellent, modeler friendly kit with a small price tag when you consider it includes a photoetch fret! Don't let that fret fret you none, as you can use the plastic parts and still have an excellent model. I think this is one more of DML's "best small scale Shermans you could buy." Thanks to Dragon Models USA for the review sample. You can get yours at better hobbyshops or www.dragonmodelsusa.com. Now if they'd only release the entire U.S. M2-M3 series half tracks and many variants with their state of the art molding in 1/35 and 1/72nd, they'd make many a modeler mighty happy! And if they'd scale down their excellent figures and offer sets of 1/72nd scale U.S. and U.K. tank crews and infantry, it would be Braille scale bliss! References: Tamiya Model Magazine International April 2007 article by Mike Kirchoff Military Modelling magazine Vol. 37 No. 11 article by Peter Heath Military Modelling magazine Vol. 35 No. 9 article by Peter Brown "British Sherman Tanks" Concord #7062, by Dennis Oliver "Sherman: A History of the American Medium Tank", by R.P. Hunnicutt. "Sherman Tank 1941-1945" by Chris Ellis and Peter Chamberlain. "Walk Around M4 Sherman" by Jim Mesko.

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