Bronco Models

1/35 T17E2 Staghound AA Armoured Car

Kit Number: 35026

Reviewed by  Howie Belkin, IPMS# 16

MSRP: $69.95 Distributed by Stevens International: www.stevenshobby.com . Editor's Note: This build uses the Lion Roar Accessory Set #LE35109 also reviewed on this website. Introduction While 2,844 Staghound Is were produced for the UK, as many as an additional 1,000 A.A. Staghounds were built with a Frazer-Nash power operated turret mounting twin M2 '50 cal' machine guns. This manufacturer already had a successful history building aviation turrets so it was natural that they could load such a compact weapon with as many as 2,610 rounds that could be fired at 600 rounds per minute per m.g. The earliest turret at first had flat plates bolted together but the curved turret provided in this kit quickly replaced it. Its true success will never be known as the Luftwaffe failed to provide them with enough targets, and no records were kept as to how much destruction was attributed to the twin .50s, even when depressed as much as 10 degrees to destroy ground targets. Very much the same as the Staghound T17E1 aside from the change in turrets, the A.A. version also deleted the hull m.g. fitting the radio equipment in that position and cutting the crew down to three. The U.S. Army chose and stayed with the Ford M8 and M20 armored cars, while England chose Chevrolet's T17E1 series which competed for the same order. Finally, another "winner" for modelers, in more ways than one! But now that Bronco has released this important, but long neglected vehicle, so has Italeri and Tamiya (releasing Italeri models). I have an Italeri basic T17E1 Staghound, and where a comparison would be of interest to the modeler, I've tried to make a suitable comparison and comment. I also had a limited run Lion Roar accessory set for this Bronco Staghound A.A. and used much of it, stating so through the review. Construction Bronco provides a 20 page, glossy instruction booklet (only 14 actually 'instruct'), 8.5 x 11 inch format, which is a welcome relief from some mfrs who condense the instructions into as few pages as possible and confuse the best of us. Just the same, dry fit and take your time as it is still easy to make mistakes as I learned during this project. Before assembly, I usually airbrush parts still on their parts trees or in assembled subassemblies. I'll come back later and touch up areas as necessary. I find this much simpler than trying to hit every spot on an assembled model. Most of the hull interior which won't be seen is painted flat white. What can be seen is painted your choice of British Olive Drab No. 15, including the turret interior. If you wanted to open the driver's or radioman's hatches there's no interior provided (and little that could be seen) aside from the turret, so close it or plan on adding some from scratch, other sources or add crewmen. Bronco's lower hull has to be assembled while Italeri's is already together. Major ejection marks marr Bronco's interior but they won't be seen if the hatches are closed and turret put in position. Italeri minimized ejection marks and/or did a better job 'hiding' them. Bronco provides complete periscopes in clear plastic, Italeri only provides the upper portions; but neither mfr provides the two crew seats in the driving compartment. Some of the earlier Staghounds show a vertical 'rod' holding the front hatches open but later versions don't show it so check your references. Bronco provides some more of the minutest detail but you pay for it in additional small parts. Where Italeri has provided enough detail molded on to the drive train, differential, drive gear, leaf springs and mountings, Bronco breaks it down into more, smaller parts that can be difficult to hold, maneuver and cement in position. For example, subassembly 4 has 4 parts to create one front brake drum assembly which connects to 10 other parts to create the forward drive assembly (completed with 7 parts by Italeri). The worst is that little of all this will be seen if you cement the finished model to a base! You can look at the instructions and decide if you want to take any short cuts and send some parts to your spares box. What kind of modeler are you? If you like the challenge of more parts for more detail, rather than less parts for a fair compromise, then you'd prefer Bronco over Italeri.

Note that parts A30 must have their rectangular opening facing down for the leaf spring to mount into later. Other areas where the directions aren't very clear include that parts A48, the large square 'nut' butts up against the exhaust pipe, not the larger muffler. I don't know how Bronco was able to do it, but similar to DMLs 'slide' method, the exhaust pipe ends and other appropriate parts were hollowed out at the end. My carpet swallowed one of them so I ultimately replaced these with solder bent to shape. If you are adding stowage (Italeri provides some but that's what Lion Roar's for!) you can ease up on using the smallest handles and other details especially on the engine deck, as the stowage will be covered from sight later. Italeri's engine cover/air intake louvers are nicely molded clear thru whereas Bronco's are not, so you'll want to drybrush Bronco's to accentuate them before cementing the cover D18. Part L8 and a not included tarp can be attached with rack P28 above the engine intake cover D18 but these will disappear underneath Lion Roar stowage that I used. You could instead place L8 as a last part to the turret top, which lets you deduce that it is a frame to hold the canvas tarp to partially cover the exposed turret in inclement weather. When adding the hull top plate, line up the edges along the top of the ridges molded to the hull side parts. If done properly you'll have an even ledge where they meet. The top front creates a fine recessed channel. Leave some parts towards last steps so you don't break or lose them in handling. There are two photo etch frets but there are no duplicate parts. For example the fret with the headlight guards is very thin and easily bent. A form is provided for it to take shape but once cemented with your favorite cyano cement it begs to get knocked off or bent. Leave these for a last step - there are no plastic (much less p.e.) replacements for them. The headlights themselves are hollowed out so you can paint their interiors then cover with the clear plastic lens after painting is done. I painted the white string which was provided as tow cable in a silver/black/thinner mix and when dry, cyano glued an end to the plastic tow hoop. I found the string too wide for the attachment point and had to fiddle with it. I then looped the string/cable where I wanted it to go, cyano cementing it to the hull front where necessary, cut off the excess then cemented the loose end into the final tow end. A little 'rust' dry brushing helped complete it. Lion Roar accessory set includes a roll of barbed wire to attach to the hull front which could be done in addition to or in lieu of the tow cable. All of Bronco's tools are molded separately and nicely done. They have molded on straps that look their part but if you want the option, you can cut them off and replace them with Lion Roar's very thin p.e. straps. If so, these are parts looking for trouble so keep them toward last. The two side entry doors interiors each sport a large round ejection indent that won't be seen if closed but may be if open so it's your choice whether to fill and smooth them. If they'll be closed, save the spare periscopes that are provided and would secure to the bottom of the doors. The doors will "fit" even if attached upside down so use the attachments for the spare periscopes to help tell the difference. Before you cement parts D46 and 47 to the hull exterior, note that only a short part of each will slide under the fender. The open end will later receive the fuel lines A29. Bronco's tires have raised lettering that Italeri doesn't have. If you forget which are front or rear, remember the ones molded to accept a notch shaped axle go up front; the straight and round ones take up the rear. They don't turn. Bronco again seems to have recreated every part of the real suspension, turning, alignment: you name it (whereas Italeri molded as many of the same parts into as few parts as possible while retaining the detail)! If you enjoy "more parts the better" you'll love Bronco but after you cement your tires in position, you'll miss seeing most of this detail. Turn, turn, turn with a Lion Roar! The turret is the center of attraction as it makes this the A.A. version. Bronco didn't miss a trick but again, with all the parts you would do yourself a service by studying them, pre-painting and dry fitting - and choosing to follow your own sequence in order to make it all happen. First, part L1 is the hull top part that properly positions the turret off center but is unclear how to align it. A photo I saw suggested that the raised casting serial number was at front and center of the hull, so that's how I positioned it. Remember, in the end the lower half of the turret has to drop into the vehicle through this part. As I went along I made sure the turret parts had only a thin coat of paint and cement and were test fitted to make sure it dropped into place. Moving along I had trouble with the subassemblies fitting so I decided that most important, the twin .50s had to align between their allotted turret slots and the guns and gunsight all had to be looking the same way. That being said, I chose to have the guns aimed at a mid-position. The Lion Roar .50s set provides the gun barrels and perforated cooling collars. To use them, carefully cut away Bronco's plastic ones (which are nicely hollowed at barrel's end but do show a significant improvement with the perforated parts.) I cemented the guns to the upper turret base L12 before completing and attaching the mg subassemblies 29, 30 and your option for the gunsight (I opted to use the gunsight option that utilized the very thin circular p.e. sight). Take care that the bottoms of parts M34, M35 and M33, M36 line up into the slots provided. Once the basic guns were set, I added the details such as the ammo belts and feeds (though plastic, the belts, M4 can be bent to follow the shapes in the instructions). Make sure too that they drop into the appropriate ammo boxes in the lower turret when mated together. I found it was easier to add subassemblies 29 and 30 at this point, adjusting them to fit. The top of M60 and M59 are the gunners seat and should be painted brown leather or khaki canvas.

What a gas The removeable fuel drums outside the Staghound are very distinctive and attention getting. Lion Roar's replacement solid resin parts are bent up, perhaps too much so according to one critic. I'll accept them as reasonable wear and tear as the crew could use them to climb up on the vehicle or pull their quick release from inside and watch them bound away. They were reusable so could get their dings and dents. Their edges though were paper thin and need a fine touch of your favorite resin putty to touch up as necessary. I made sure mine were painted a different distinctive green drab for effect. Bronco's p.e. belts that lash the fuel drums to the vehicle have to connect to a plastic part top and bottom which is difficult, while they are so thin it is easy for the straps to bend out of shape more than you'd prefer (Italeri 'aced' this by making the strap and the top and bottom connectors all one piece (6PH). Bronco's tiny connections affixed to the hull exteriors must be lined up "just so" - Just so it all lines up! Watch that the straps fall inside the bands molded on the fuel drums so they don't overlap and so the drums don't interfere with the entry/escape hatches operation and that the 'top' of the fuel drums face the rear so that the plumbing for the fuel can go from the drum's cap opening, to the entrance port in the vehicle. Bump in the night, right to the finish Simple U shaped rear wire bumpers assemblies 17, antennas and other very thin plastic parts didn't remove from their sprue properly. They broke and required sprue or wire replacements. The first time you encounter p.e. part P10 it's not crystal clear that it is an L shaped bracket to hold the rear of the front fenders to the hull. Only a spare jerry can is provided for fender stowage so the package of Lion Roar resin stowage comes in handy. Italeri, provides a few stowage pieces, by the way. Most have molded on rope tie downs so it's your choice whether you use the Lion Roar p.e. straps and attach their buckles to them. Use some artistic privilege to have the stowage standout from the vehicle or you'll have one chunk of monotone British Olive Drab No. 15! I left the tools off until after my final flat coat so their wooden handles would still have a glossy varnish look to them. The box top art shows an additional brace for the side mirror brackets but the instructions don't show it and it's not on the parts sprue as far as I could tell. Markings Markings are provided for three "overall British Olive Drab No. 15" vehicles. I built "Great-Auhtie Aircaft IV" that served with the Royal Canadian Dragoons in Italy 1944 and sports a British air recognition roundel on the engine deck. I cut it in half with a sharp scalpel then cut a triangle to follow the form of parts it would lay on. "Holborn" of Inns of Court Regt. 1 Corps in France, June 1944 has no air recognition marking but like the last option, has turret stars. The 3rd and last option has no name, but has a US air recognition star and markings of the 11th Hussars, 7th Armored Div. (red jerboa) Normandy, June 1944. Summary Thanks to Bronco for coming out with excellent choices of long ignored AFVs, and thanks too for the review kit via Laura Carney at distributor Stevens International. I highly recommend this Bronco T17E2 Staghound A.A. as well worth the wait for the experienced modeler, but 384 plastic parts and 50 photo-etched pieces provide a challenge. Some of the plastic parts though exquisitely molded, are quite small and difficult to handle like the butterfly nuts! No additional parts are necessary, but Lion Roar provides a photo etch and resin set mentioned in the review (and is a separate IPMS review) that though not a necessity, certainly makes an excellent model a superb one. The model and P.E./Resin set do not include handles for removing the .50 cal. m.g. barrels as mentioned above, and others have complained about this. I took the time to examine many photos and have concluded that this is correct: Bronco did NOT cut corners here. Perhaps the handles got in the way of elevating or lowering the guns. I suggest leaving them off. If you use the Lion Roar or other brand detail sets, you at least get the advantage of having truly perforated air cooled sleeves. Bronco's machine gun barrels are drilled out at the end and though plastic molded perforated sleeves aren't as good as replacement p.e. parts, they can certainly be kept as spare gun barrels. Bronco kits are available at better hobby shops, or contact Stevens at http://www2.stevenshobby.com Stevens International White Horse Pike & Marion Ave., Magnolia, NJ 08049 Phone: (856) 435-1555. Lion Roar accessory sets are also readily available but this is a limited run so don't hesitate. Lion Roar is distributed via Dragon Models USA. References: www.staghounds.org.uk American Armoured Cars 1940-1945, published by Almarks, by C. Ellis, P. Chambelain and Ken Jones U.S. Armored Cars in Action, by Jim Mesko, published by Squadron/Signal AFV Weapons Profile #40 U.S. Armoured Cars, by R. J. Icks D-Day to Berlin, by Terrance Wise, published by Squadron/Signal. World War II AFVs Armoured Fighting Vehicles and S.P. Artillery, by George Forty American Armored Cars, published by Grenadier, written by A.J. Clemens Photo History of Armoured Cars in Two World Wars, by George Forty, published by Blandford The British Reconnaissance Corps in World War II, by Richard Doherty, published by Osprey