Dragon Models

1/35 Stu.Pz.IV Sd.Kfz.166"BrummBar" 'Mid' production - 2 in 1 Smart Kit

Kit Number: 6460

Reviewed by  Bruce Drummond, IPMS# 37265

MSRP: $47.00 Website: www.dragonmodelsusa.com Another subject in Dragon's continuing '39 - '45 series. This is another type of vehicles created by the Germans as a 'stop gap' weapon. This weapon was needed and used to bring down fortified positions with minimal effort and to bring support to the available ground forces. The Brummbar, as they came to be known, were primarily built from Chassis that were returned to the factories from the front for rebuilding. I am looking forward to building the entire series, all 3, which I hope to add to this article. It was decided in 1942, by Adolph Hitler, that a new Assault/Attack Sturmpanzer vehicle was needed. The concept consisted of a 150mm gun on a Panzerkampfwagen IV chassis. Albert Speer was given the task and produced the following: EARLY Version The first 60 were in service by May 1943. They used mainly rebuilt chassis or a few new chassis of the Panzer IV Ausf E, Ausf F and Ausf G types. There were several problems that the Germans experienced with this vehicle. One being, due to the high superstructure and weight of the armor, the vehicle suffered from suspension problems, transmission problems and also from being underpowered. All this coupled with a high fuel consumption and like it's big brother, the Pz VI 'Elephant', it also had no frontal machine gun for self defense, initially. An MP 40 was supplied to be fired from the Pistol Ports. The B initial 'Brummbars' were fitted with a 'Fahrersehklappe 80' vision port (the type used on the Tiger I). This version had a crew of only 4 men. Most of these vehicles were lost in Russia at places such as Kursk, Kharkov and Dneprstroy,1943. ***** When representing this vehicle, I would recommend that you use all rubber type bogies. MID Version Late 1943 saw a second series of the Pz IV's with the 150mm StuH 43/1 L/12 with some 80 additional vehicles being produced. The Vehicle now carried a 5 man Crew. Other changes to this vehicle were in the way of a new vision port (periscope type) being added for the driver. Until the use of lighter armor was incorporated, these vehicles had the same overload problems on the suspension and Engine as exhibited in the earlier version. **** When representing this vehicle, you can use the all rubber Road Wheels as shown in some photos or a mixture of Steel wheels to the rear using a total of 2 pairs per side and the Rubber type, two pair per side on the front bogies. These were the most common usages as recommended by the Factories. You can actually mix and match to any order or just use all Steel Wheels. LATE Version In mid 1944, a new and improved model was being produced. The Late Models used the Panzerkampfwagen IV H chassis and along with the J series. The new Production vehicles included a redesigned superstructure with the overall height being reduced as a result. The roof was now a two part angled affair and not a one pieced slant. It also now incorporated ball-mounted MG 34 (Kugelblende 80 adapted from the Tiger I) in the front plate located above the Drivers position. The Commanders cupola was adapted from the StuG III Ausf G. They were also fitted with an Anti-Aircraft mount. In addition, this late model series was supplied with Zimmerit Anti-Magnetic Paste. This series did not have the same suspension problems as the early and mid variants had. **** When representing this Vehicle use all Steel Wheels. In all these production runs a major problem was the amount of Ammunition that could be carried. On average there were about 38 rounds of 150mm. Some models were even given additional radios and additional antennas and were designated as a Befelsturmmpanzer IV, or more briefly the Bef.Stu.Pz.IV.

The Kit I would first like to say "Thank you" to the people from Dragon for supplying this kit to me for this review. This is a wonderful looking kit of the 'Mid' version. The differences in some of the casting parts are like night and day, especially the Hull, which is slide molded and has greater detail in the way of rivets and bolts on the bottom and the tracks, which now come in individual bags marked Right & Left and not on the giant single tree. When this kit and that of the older 'Late' version Hulls are side by side, you notice the differences right away. There are 18 Frets of gray Plastic with 1 of Clear parts, 1 Photo Etch with 2 separate frets of individual side skirts, in metal of 4 Panels each. Two packages of tracks for both Right and Left runs and 1 Decal sheet with generic markings to make 1 vehicle with the Stu.Pz.Abt, 216, Italy 1944, along with the usual suggestions of color/camouflage chart. From the onset I chose to do a basic vehicle and not the Command version with the Star Antenna (my real reason here is that I have a few other vehicles with the 'Star type Antenna' and did not want my shelf to look like a continuing City tenement section of roof tops). There is minimal flash clean ups for the body of the vehicle. The individual tracks must be cleaned of 2 push pin marks apiece. This will be a long and tedious process, so set aside a whole day and night. I also mention that the Photo Etch included in this kit is not that difficult to deal with and as usual you have the option to either include it or use the plastic piece. A great idea in case you screw one or the other up! The biggest 'headache' with the PE will be with the small bolt plates that are needed for the superstructure sides if you choose not to add the Schurzen and their brackets. These are very teeny items with about a dozen to be added. I admit they will look good in place. I personally chose side armor and so I did not have to use them. Wheels: As with most kits, this one also starts with the wheel assemblies. The one thing that is noticeable is the changes in the road wheels. Not the ordinary wheel but a newly tooled one. Also there is the addition of PE rings to be added to the inside of each half of the Idler wheels. When glued together they make an impressive wheel. I chose the earlier 'boxy' type Idler. Moving on to the Hull the hatch plates on the bottom have been represented and they were outstanding. I began with the attachment of the front and rear armor plates as I like a stable platform to work with and as a check against any warpage. No trouble here and the fit of these plates on my kit was spot on with no filler added as so often happens. After the front plate I noticed that I did need to clean up the clevis pins on the towing pintles as they were not as close fitting as I would like and needed correcting. When this was cleaned up to my satisfaction I moved to the rear plate and added the Tow mount along with the Hand crank starter plate or cover. I leave all tools of until the Final build when all is painted. This was then followed by the axle mount housings and the small individual rubber stop blocks. This hull is starting to shape up. These were a very detailed affair and went together quickly. When finished and added to the Hull, they were impressive The 2 Fuel Caps and both Tow Hooks and it was time to move on. Wow, all this in 4 steps. Next, you will need to make a choice. Which Idler Wheel housing will you use, early or late style. The difference, basically, is the type of configuration where the Tension adjusters are mounted. Again, I chose the earlier 'block' type, (I like lots of bolts and rivets and boxy things). I left off the Tension adjustment handles until later in the build for ease of handling. The Muffler was constructed and set aside for later mounting. In step # 6, another interesting choice to make concerns the front upper Glacis plate where the spare track is mounted. While it does not specifically, so, you must decide which spare track retaining pins are to be used, PE or plastic. If you choose plastic then you must drill out the holes indicated. If you choose PE, DO NOT, drill out these holes as the PE will not properly cover them. The Fenders can now be added, both of which are fully molded, top and bottom and are by far, an excellent advancement over the older types. The timing of this action is your choice as some would add the tracks before the fenders for ease of build. All other items were added with the exception of the tools, which I add after all else is painted. The Hull was then set aside for drying. When dry, I chose 'Afrika Braun' for the main vehicle color and after painting it was again set aside to dry. Tracks: 260 of the little buggers! 130 rights and 130 left. Be sure to keep them separated. Each link has 2 push minor ejector pin marks on them and these need to be scraped from off. A half days work for me! When all were finally cleaned they were mounted to some tape and painted my favorite earth brown color. When these little beauties had dried for a day they were then glued together with modelmaster glue and given time to set up before draping them over the Bogies. All went nicely and the weathering of these puppies came later just before I added the Fenders, Superstructure: Let's start with the Engine deck first. Photo Etch Screens. These are added to the underside of the engine bay doors and although they are barely seen they do look good when complete. If you close them the doors, don't forget to sandwich the screens once they are in place with a piece of plastic so you cannot see through to the bottom, that is, unless you decide to put in an aftermarket Engine and leave them open. There are two spare track support bars that are added to the rear of the engine deck and they are nicely reproduced, not the standard double 'U' bent bar. It would be a shame to cover the whole bar with a complete set of wheels. I suggest, however, that when you mount the spare wheel brackets, that you add the wheels to them temporarily, as a gauge or mark their proposed placement point with a pencil before cementing them in place. We have finally arrived at Mecca, the fighting compartment. All four sides or molded as one complete unit with pistol ports and their plugs (there are 5 of them including the rear hatch). These can be either closed or open, as you are given small PE chains (each link will need to be twisted) with which to hang the plugs. The roof is another separate affair with additional nice detail molded on. The hatches can be made to be opened or closed, yet another decision. The rear hatch gives the option of being either opened or closed. Another choice is to use the split hatches. These are well represented, both inside and out and look very nice when finished. With or without the pistol port opened or closed. They lend a nice touch to the overall vehicle. A body to block the opening would serve well here. Was that loaders hatch or loaded hatch? Not only is it well detailed but it comes with support bars! Cool. Machine Gun, you ask? Yeah Baby! This bad boy is 'jes waitin ta chop wood'. Sadly, Dragon offers no Ammo belt or can along with this kit. Oops, I guess I'll be raiding the parts box. Also included as a nice accent to all this is a Scissors Periscope that mounts on a wonderful little support bar from underneath the roof rather than just a slab of plastic. Nice touch by Dragon. The Bunker Buster Verrrry nice! The Barrel is slide molded and as a result a one piece casting with no seam lines. It also has recessed rifling as photos of the real ones show. I decided to paint it before placing it in the barrel sleeve. I then found out, that after painting it, the fit is so close that had to do a minor bit of filing around the inner sleeve so that it would slide through! It doesn't get closer than that. Although there is not much in the way of do-hinkies and Gadgets for both the gun and its mount, they are enhanced by such items as the Breech Block which can be displayed open or closed and hand wheels that appear to be scale in size and delicate. Oh, did I mention the seat? It is a shame that this stuff will not be seen easily. I need to mention here that you may encounter a small problem, I did, and having talked with a few other modelers, we came to the agreement on the installation of the Gun Carriage to the Chassis and the front wall mount that there is created severe tension and may cause you to NOT be able to mount the superstructure to the Chassis or as in my case it kept "springing loose" when touched. Our combined thoughts ranged from shaving the bottom of the gun chassis or to enlarge the gun ring slightly, or both to have better results otherwise the build was straight forward and all pieces went on with no trouble. Weathering the Beast I used Future Floor Wax in the areas where the Decals are to be set and set to dry. Okay, Decals have been added after careful trimming and nestled in place with the use of Microset and then Microsol. When all is dry, I give the Vehicle a coat of Dullcote and again set the whole affair aside to dry. My usual way of weathering is to begin with an overall wash of thinned Artists Oils. When I use Gray as a base I wash initially with Black or Sepia. When the base is yellow I turn to Sepia and possibly a Tan. In thios case I used Sepia for the overall wash to tone down the base color. I used a Hair Dryer on LOW to assist in quick drying the oils. I correct any spots that build up or puddle and as a result do not sit well on the Kit with a dampened Q-tip or stiff Brush. When all is corrected to satisfaction and dried again with the Hair Dryer I start to highlight areas and recesses with a direct Black Wash. With time and patience the result will be that the vehicle now stands out. Some local Dry Brushing and the use of Pastels to choice, this Beast will look ever such the "Road Warrior". Great Kit, lots of parts and a rakish appearance all lend to make quite an outstanding potential for a static model or the potential of a unique Diorama. I recommend this kit very highly, especially if you like or collect Panzer IV and their variants.