Dragon

1/35 M3A1 Half-track

Kit Number: 6332, "3-in-1" Series

Reviewed by  Rod Lees, IPMS #10821

MSRP: $ 56.99 Website: www.dragonmodelsusa.com First things first: Heavy, serious thanks to the folks at Dragon Models USA for providing IPMS these models for review. This reviewer corps is a great thing, and companies like Dragon are responding to what we are looking for. (Anyone else want a new technology model of ONTOS as much as I do?) This is one way we can support them… and we get cool new stuff! Wow. Four times in a year I've built Armor. This one was an opportunity to see just how far new technology has come since I built Monogram's 1/32 scale halftrack back in the late 1960's. Let's just say it's night and day; build the Monogram kit for memories, build the DML kit for accuracy and competition… both have their niche. OK, the obligatory "History" of the model: Halftracks were designed to provide the best of both worlds for the GI's supporting armor units; ability to negotiate offroad situations and keep up with the creepers, with some form of armor protection for the grunts which was not provided by Deuce and a half or other soft-skinned vehicles. Some armies of the world are reported to still be using the M3 in one form or another today; that speaks to the sound basic design of the vehicle. (I don't know who today, but hey, I know for a fact they were still being used by Yugoslavia back in the early 1970's…) Inside the thoroughly packed box, You are confronted with 10 standard gray sprues for the basic model (including .50 and .30 machine guns, mounts, and tools), separately-molded drive and idler wheels, a photoetch sheet with mine triggers, louvers for the engine radiator protective shield, handles for the mines (!), windshield wipers, and brush guards for the M3 headlights. Four sets of molded protective grill assemblies are in yet another plastic bag, a clear sprue with the windshield and light assemblies, and a driver figure on yet another sprue. A length of chain and thread are provided for the winch assembly, and two sets of M1 Garands are provided for details. Details on these parts are astounding; it's amazing what Dragon can produce. Some parts are fragile, so careful application of a razor saw or side nippers is the order of the day for removing them from the injection stubs. The whole thing is rounded off with two excellent decal sheets, stars, circled stars (I call those "Bullseye" stars, I.E., "Shoot here for best effect"), a couple of U.S. flags with proper numbers of stars on the blue field for the 1940's, and a sheet of vehicle numbers and symbols. Everything previously mentioned is in individually-sealed bags… no shipping damage here. Word to the wise: Decide which version you are going to build, and then cross off those that you don't intend to model in the instructions. These 3-in-one kits are excellent value, but as I found out, you can go down the wrong path and end up with minor yet very visible mistakes in equipment on your model. (Like my use of the standard M3 headlights and brush guards instead of the correct "spider light" assemblies on the M3A1)… That doesn't mean they are totally wrong, but details are important if you are going to competition with the final product. Due to my lack of knowledge of the real vehicle, I followed the instructions (with one notable exception to be stated later). The basic construction follows Detroit standards; subassemblies with gearboxes, drive train, radiator, engine, and running gear. Step 2 is assembly of the track running gear; a bit fiddly, but it worked. Step three was assembly of the vehicle sub-frame, including springs, steering gearbox, etc… Step four has you combine all the subassemblies into a recognizable lower frame assembly. I made it to this point and painted it all Testors FS34087 Olive Drab, rattle can # 1911. I then mixed up some Polly-S Railroad silver and black for a metallic wash, and painted the engine assembly and transmission with it. The tire assemblies are one-piece, easy to paint and install. They have flats molded in place; I waited until the tracks had dried before I installed the wheel/tires in place. The drum brakes have keyed locator pins, but I cut them off and let the model parts find their own center for the tires when I glued them in place. Face it, it's an easier technique for ham-fisted guys like me who might slightly mis-align the brake drums during installation. Step 5 was where I ran into problems; the tracks come in inner and outer section, formed as they sit on the drive assembly; I tried to install once side by placing the inner run in place, installing the idler and drive sprocket wheels over their axles (while aligning the lower rollers), and attaching the outer section of track. That did not work well at all; I almost ended up with the whole thing in the trash bin. "OK, time to regroup and think it through", sez I. On the other side I opted to assemble the inner and outer track runs into one set of tracks; after they had set up, I glued the idler and sprocket wheels in their upper corners, and let the cement set. I then carefully spread the track assemblies on the upper and lower section so they would fit over the lower running gear rollers, put cement on the axles for the idler and sprocket, and slipped the whole thing over into place. This displaced the upper single idler roller, which I was then able to pop back into place after all was in place. If I do another of these I will use that technique on both sides… At this point you are also directed to assemble the forward winch or roller rack. As I was doing an M3A1 I went with the winch. The thread and chain are effective in how they look; assemble and drape them over the front… coolness. Step 7 would have you assemble weapons and the driver. I did not do this… Word to the wise, ASSEMBLE AND PAINT THE DRIVER after the next step. That way you can install him in the cab before the steering wheel, levers, and upper gun cupola are in place. And you can place the hands in the proper locations. DON'T be stupid like I did and wait until the model is finished and try to drop him in place… it's a disaster displacing every lever in the cab, and very tough to install the steering wheel after he's in place… Step 9, 10, and 11 have you assemble the cab, paint it, and I reiterate, again, THIS is when you need to place the driver in the cab. Nice features at this point; open or closed armor door sides and windshield protector, along with PE louvers for the buttoned-down mode. Good diorama potential with this one. The remaining steps (12-17) are for assembling the various options of the fighting compartment. You can have your basic troop carrier, radios, antennas, external cargo racks, and, of course external mine carriers. The cupola for the .50 cal was a bit of a challenge for me; I finally worked all the parts into place without them looking like Boris the junior shop apprentice welded the thing together. All the weapons are nicely detailed; the M-1's have separate receivers and even ammunition for the diorama lovers out there. Here's yet another nice touch: The basic kit has "molded in place" mine racks with mines as one-piece items to attach to the sides; here is where the DML "do it better" philosophy comes into play. Alternate empty racks along with separate mines and photoetched trigger and carrying handles are provided for more intense detail. Here is where I started to think too much myself about the real world; I would have been hesitant to carry mines externally on the sides of the vehicle, given the propensity of gunfire to cause the explosive in mines to cook off if shot. And I have to say it: I've always wondered at the wisdom of riding around in an open-top armored box among opponents with hand grenades (Helps to keep the fragments rattling around inside when they go off). Guess someone figured that out later by coming up with the M113 APC series… OK, enough editorializing from the AF guy. Marking options are many; the decals were perfect, settling down on the flat sides and responding nicely to Solvaset around the hinges on the hood for the large white star and circle. In the end, I have a really nice looking M3 series half track to offset all the full-tracked vehicles in the barn. Thanks to DML for continuing their series of 1939-1945 models. The standard is being set from their stable.